Spindlicity : Fulled Pocket Purse

Fulled Pocket Purse

By Janel Laidman

SPECS:

Fiber: Approximately 2.5 ounces Romeldale/CVM in two different colorways, spun 2-ply
WPI: 7
Gauge: Not critical, as each type of fiber will full differently and the size of the finished purse may vary. Use a gauge that gives you a medium tightness of stockinette, so that when fulled the fabric will close up.

Here's a fun purse with pockets built in as you go! The body of this purse is knitted in a feltable fiber of your choice, in two different colorways, spun to about a worsted-weight gauge. After fulling, the top edge and drawstring handles crocheted from Noro "Daria," a rayon-wrapped cotton cord that comes in the usual Noro-luscious colorways. Crochet gauge isn't given; just be sure before tying off and cutting the cord that you can get items in and out of the opening. If not, unravel the crocheting and rework at a looser gauge.

Abbreviations:

K, k	Knit
P, p	Purl
st, sts	Stitch, stitches
dpn(s)	Double-pointed needle(s)
CO	Cast on
K2tog	Knit 2 together (a 1-stitch decrease)
ch	chain
sc	single-crochet (UK double-crochet)
dc	single-crochet (UK double-crochet)

Materials:
About 2.5 ounces Romeldale/CVM in two different colorways, spun and plied to about a worsted weight
Cord: Noro "Daria" in color 2 or any color to coordinate with your yarn
Needles:
Two 24-inch circular needles size US7 (4.5mm) or any size to give you medium-gauge stockinette. It's best to use two different-looking needles, e.g., bamboo and metal.
One set of double-pointed needles in the same needle-circumference size as the circular needles.
Crochet hook: G (4.5mm) or size to give appropriate gauge
Stitch marker for beginning of round.

Gauge:
Not critical, as each type of fiber will full differently and the size of the finished purse may vary. Use a gauge that gives you a medium tightness of stockinette, so that when fulled the fabric will close up.

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Beginning at top edge, CO80 on circular needle in color 1. Join, being careful not to twist, and knit one round (Round 1).

Round 2: Place a marker for the beginning of the round. Yo, K2tog 40 times.

Rounds 3-6: Knit.

The pockets are formed by crossing over the yarn in 10-stitch intervals from one needle to the other. Needle1 is your original needle, needle2 is your new needle. Except for the first set-up round, Needle1 always knits off of Needle1 and Needle2 only knits off Needle2. It makes things easiest if you use two different looking needles so that you don't accidentally mix up your needles. Make sure to cross the yarn at each crossover point.

Begin double knit pocket rounds:

Round 7 (Set-up round): On Needle1 (original needle containing knit rounds), k10 from Needle1 with color2.
On Needle2 (empty needle), CO10 with color1.
*On Needle2, knit next 10 sts from Needle1 with color2.
On Needle1, CO10 with color1.
On Needle1, knit next 10 sts from Needle1 with color2.
On Needle 2, CO10 with color1.
Repeat from * until you have 8 crossovers and 8 pockets started.

Subsequent pocket rounds:

Round 8: *On needle1, k10 in color2.
On needle2, p10 in color1, cross yarns to bring color1 to front.
On needle1, k10 in color1.
On needle2, k10 in color2, cross yarns to bring color2 to front.
Repeat from * 3 more times to complete round.

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Before fulling

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After fulling

Rounds 9-25 or until pocket is the depth that you wish: Repeat Round 7.

Round 26 (Merge round): Knit together 1 stitch from needle1 and 1 stitch from needle2 all the way around with color 2. All sts are now on needle1; needle2 is no longer needed.

Rounds 27-32: Knit 6 rows with color 2.

Switch to color 1.

Decrease rounds (switch to dpns when round gets too small for circular needle):

Round 33: Knit 1 round (80 stitches).

Round 34: K3, k2 tog until end of round (16 decreases, 64 sts).

Round 35 and all remaining odd-numbered rounds: Knit.

Round 36: K3, k2 tog to last 4 sts, k4 (12 decreases, 52 sts).

Round 38: K3, k2 tog to last 2 sts, k2 (10 decreases, 42 sts).

Round 40: K3, k2 tog to last 2 sts, k2 (8, decreases, 34 sts).

Round 42: K3, k2 tog to last 4 sts, k4 (6 decreases, 28 sts).

Round 44: K3, k2 tog to last 3 sts, k3 (5 decreases, 23 sts).

Round 46: K3, k2 tog to last 4 sts, k4 (4 decreases, 19 sts).

Round 48: K3, k2 tog to last st, k1 (3 decreases, 16 sts).

Round 50: K1, k2 tog to last st, k1 (5 decreases, 11 sts).

Round 52: K1, k2 tog to last 2 sts, k2 (3 decreases, 8 sts).

Break yarn and draw through remaining 8 sts twice, then cinch tight. Weave in ends.

Full knitted bag in washing machine. Check fulling process to make sure fulling is occurring as you wish it.

Enlarge Photo

Once bag is fulled, begin crochet edging:

Round 1: With crochet hook and Noro cord, leaving a tail about 8 inches long, sc around bag in each yo along upper edge. This will cinch the upper edge of the bag. Check that your gauge allows room for objects to enter the bag!

Rounds 2-7: Sc for 6 rounds.

Round 8: Ch2, dc in second st from ch, *ch1, miss 1 and dc in next st; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 9: Ch1, (sc, dc, sc) in ch from previous round, *miss 1, (sc, dc, sc) in ch from previous round; repeat from * to end of round.

Tie off and break cord, leaving a tail about 8 inches long. Weave in ends.

Drawstring handles: Using Noro cord, crochet 2 chains of 100 chain sts each; weave in ends. Run each chain through the openwork round, knotting ends together on inside at opposite sides of bag. This drawstring also acts as the handle of the bag.