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Homemade Optim...
A chemistry experiment

by Janel Laidman

I first heard about Optim on the TechSpin list , and, being a chemist, wanted to know more about it, so I looked into the process. Optim is a fairly new fiber process that was developed in Australia which stretches 19s diameter (average) merino wool and then permanently sets it to give it a finer, more 'silky' appearance. According to CSIRO company, the process results in a finer diameter wool which can be used to make finer, and lighter garments. As I read more about the process I discovered that there are four essential steps.

  1. Chemically reduce the fiber. This breaks hydrogen bonds which help hold the fiber in it's curly shape.
  2. Twist the sliver.
  3. Apply force to stretch the sliver.
  4. Heat set, allowing the hydrogen bonds to re-form in new locations.

It struck me, that this is essentially what happens when you give your hair a permanent wave! So I decided to try making my own Optim using a home permanent kit. What follows are the results of this experiment.

I started out by purchasing a home permanent kit from my local drugstore. There weren't many choices, so I had to take what was there. I ended up with Ogilve "Precisely Right" home permanent kit for normal hair. I used a merino roving that had been pin-drafted and broke off 4 approximately equal pieces. I decided to do 3 experiments, and keep one length of pre-experiment roving to compare. The experiments I decided on were:

  1. Perm the roving for the minimum time.
  2. Perm for the maximum time.
  3. Use a control roving applying the twisting and stretching using water only.

I started off by mixing the perm solution with the activator solution following Ogilve's directions. The solution immediately became warm. I then soaked 1 piece of roving in water, and 2 pieces of roving in permanent solution. The roving soaked in permanent solution became slippery and "rubbery" feeling immediately. I then took the roving out of the solution and twisted it, tying knots at the ends.

I attempted to stretch it by suspending it from a hook by one end and weighting it with a catfood can from the other end. This was problematic, because the roving wanted to untwist, and the cans did not seem to provide sufficient weight to apply enough force.

So I then detached the cans and satisfied the stretching force by grasping both ends of the roving and pulling to stretch. Roving 1 was stretched approx 6 minutes, Roving 2 was stretched approx 12 minutes. The control roving was stretched 6 minutes. (this makes a great workout for your upper arms in case you can't make it to the gym...)

I then deactivated the perm solution with the deactivator solution included in the kit. and rinsed each roving in copious amounts of water. The rovings were spread out to dry on a towel overnight. The next day I examined the three rovings to see if any difference had been made. The two different time periods of the perm solution roving appeared identical, however they did differ from the water only control roving. The perm solution rovings were wispier, straighter and felt slightly "cobwebby".

Top - 12 minutes, middle - 6 minutes, bottom - water only control

I tried drafting from the end of each roving, all drafted easily, the permed roving drafted smoothly even though it felt sort of cobwebby. I photographed the ends of the rovings in macro mode to see if any difference could be determined between the permed roving and the water only control roving. As you can see in the image below, the treated roving fibers were somewhat straighter and did not fan out as much as the regular roving.

water only

perm solution

I spun a sample of the different rovings to see if there was any difference in the way the rovings spun up. The perm treated roving spun thinner and denser than the regular roving, however there was no way to control for inconsistencies in spinning since it was spun by me, a mere human...

Conclusions? Well, first of all, I haven't touched the real Optim so I can't compare my version to the commercial version. However judging by the descriptions (like cashmere) and the photographs I've seen, I don't think I succeeded in getting mine as fine as commercial Optim. I did, however, change the texture of the wool and achieved an easy-to-spin fine thread from the roving which was denser and less hairy than the regular roving. I don't think I would recommend this as an alternative to purchasing commercial Optim, as it's rather expensive, smelly and time consuming. In analysing why mine did not come out as wonderful as commercial Optim, I can offer these possibilities...

  1. The activator (which was the reducing agent) might have worked better if it had been applied after twisting.
  2. The fiber should have been steamed to heat set it after de-activation (heat setting was not part of the directions of the perm kit, so I assumed the deactivator was in fact a chemical that would accomplish the same thing, allowing the hydrogen bonds to re-form).
  3. The fiber should have been re-combed after de-activation to make a more uniform roving.
  4. Not enough mechanical force was applied to properly stretch the fiber.
  5. Not enough twist was applied to compress the fiber.

If I were to try this again, I would try using a different perm kit or using sodium bisulfite which is what was cited by the Australian Synchrotron website as the reducing agent. I would also look for a more uniform way to apply mechanical force, perhaps one which could be precisely controlled in increments...

Well... on to the next experiment!

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